Kathman-doodling

Stuart pronounces favourably on Everest Lager - far superior to India's vapid and fizzy Kingfisher

Patty consulting a newly "made-over" Stuart on our next steps

Day 5 and feeling definitely stuck in Kathmandu. We are awaiting our departure tomorrow a.m for a 7 day trek in the Ghorepani-Ghandrok area of the Annapurna Himalayas. This trek is sometimes called the "Teahouse Trek" - which, admittedly, doesn't have the spine-chilling ring of excitement as the "Everest Base Camp" climb - but, as noted earlier, I didn't bring the right boots for the Everest climb!. The weather is fantastic in the mountains at the moment and the hike promises many fine views as we hike through rhododendron-blooming forests and even take in a hot spring or two. Stay tuned to this page for further news.

Even though we were amply warned, Kathmandu is a surprisingly crowded (2.2 million population) and very polluted place. The toxic brew of too many motorcycles and the high altitude delivers a sting to the eyes and rasp in the throat that mimics an allergic reaction. Patty and I have borrowed a habit from the locals and have taken to wearing face masks around town to try to limit the effects. Notwithstanding the smog and noise, there is plenty to do and see here. We've spent a lot of time exploring Buddhist temple complexes in Kathmandu and surroundings - including nearby Pathan where we were treated to a rather gruesome temple sacrifice of three buffaloes. The Nepalese have adopted a clever but unwelcome fundraising ploy - tagging tourists for entry permits to old parts of the city and relieving you of $5.00 for the pleasure of walking around with un-paying locals and dodging cars, motorcycles and an army of street hawkers that ply the cobblestone roads throughout these ancient areas. I suppose this is all tolerable if the Nepalese do as they say and use these proceeds to maintain and preserve their UNESCO World heritage sites (a good first step here would be to ban vehicle through traffic in these sites, I suggest). In addition, there are often temple monkeys en site to keep you amused with out charge (beyond pitching the odd banana their way).

As an update on the differences between Nepal and India posted earlier this week, I am pleased to report that Nepalese beer is far superior to India's ubiquitous Kingfisher. Everest Lager is my thirst quencher of choice at the moment. I should also note that one can readily acquire passable French Pinot Noir in the stores here - good wine being as scarce as an honest price from a street hawker in India. With our trek now delayed a day by roadblock protests by yet another Maoist splinter group (not to be confused with the original Maoist splinter group that now forms the government and from which this splinter group splintered from), another bottle of Pinot Noir may be in order for cocktail hour. This would constitute the only "red" I would choose to support today.