Lesotho's Third Official Language (and the real one)

Greetings once again from the mountain kingdom where we toil away in
30 degree heat sheltered from any evidence that Christmas is upon us.

The tour books on Lesotho speak about its two official languages -
Sesotho (in which we are, shall we say, struggling) and English (of
which we have a somewhat better command). But after a month here it is
clear to me that there is a third language in Lesotho that is as
importnat as the official languages and that is music.

I have visited a lot of countries that boast strong musical traditions
and cultures. But I've never been anywhere where music is such a
heartbeat in the land. We awake most mornings to a local troubadour
walking the hills playing an accordion. School children sing morning
songs before class and then march into theirs classrooms in song. We
had the good fortune of being invited to a party at our neighbours
place on Saturday to celebrate the graduation of two family members
from college. This was a most impressive and colourful gathering to
honour a worthy achievement with the many, many speeches punctuated by
spontaneous outbreaks of song prompted by one person and soon engaging
everyone. Patty and I have had people sing songs to us in the middle
of private conversation. A wandering minstrel sang us a song the other day, accompanied on a guitar-type object made from a 4 litre oil can and some tennis-racket webbing as strings. The choir at the local Catholic church is so
good that I'm considering converting! Lush, multi-layered harmonies
effortlessly delivered often accompanied by the rather unusual sight
of a nun on a drum between her knees - which always sends the choir
and most of the congregation into a shuffling rumba. And finally, the
taxi buses, which are a kaleidoscopic experience unto themselves,
always serve up full throttle mbaqanga music at just enough decibels
to drown out many disturbing thumps and squeals in the highly suspect
motor train. Sometimes the taxis play vapid American fake-soul pop
which is made tolerable by listening to school girl passengers
layering African harmonies onto the tines as they sing along.

Two prominent musical styles are South African based - mpanqanga or
"township jive" made popular by groups such as Mahlathini and the
Mahotella Queens (who gave an unforgettable performance during
Victoria's 1994 Commonwealth games) and featured on Paul Simon's
"Graceland". To me, this music has a trance luke quality with
descending bass lines and solid drum beats set against the back beat of
accordion melodies - all of which is overridden with a growling chant-
like vocal line. The other style is the beautiful capella style mbube
choral music made famous by Ladysmith Black Mambazo - much more
peaceful to the ear but evidently not as useful as full-blare mbaqanga
in luring customers into market stalls and stores.