Paris when it sizzles

A dispatch from the city of Light and Magic (which, as has been widely reported, turns out to be much nicer than Edmonton).

What makes this place sizzle and spark? It is not so much the setting but what has been done with it. The Seine appears a pretty pedestrian river by Canadian standards. The very occasional hill gives way to a vast expanse of flat that would make someone from Saskatchewan feel at home. I believe the French have it right in their national motto: Liberty, Equality and Fraternity. “Liberty” means you can do what you want in the city when you want – witness the extensive public wine drinking and romancing in the evenings (although be careful if you want to munch a baguette on the lawns of the Tuilleries within sight of the constabulary). Liberty also means taking liberty with traffic rules. One wonders whether the French actually stop for pedestrians at crosswalks because they are obeying the rules or they want to avoid denting their hoods with any bodies they might hit. “Equality” is a tougher stretch although quite apparent in a very cosmopolitan city and its evident gender equality (or notable inequality if looking at the ratio of women’s: men’s clothing stores). Similarly, “fraternity” speaks to the strong sense of national community – changing as it is but bound tightly by higher and deeper philosophical principles. I have not seen in Canada anywhere near the same level of philosophical ponderings on public displays in monuments and public inscriptions (such as the declaration of the rights of man carved into the pavement of the Trocadero Palace near our hotel). It has been said that the French often ponder the question: “Well, while that works in practice, does it work in theory?” – and I believe it. And the monuments to a rich if sometimes “overstated” history (Did the French really liberate Paris by themselves in WWII?!?). And the celebration of art – encouraged by the fact that that the world’s greatest art museum is free on Sundays – apparently welcoming swarms of Mona seekers and da Vinci code tourists. And the profound feeling that this is, in fact, the best city in the world by any measure with those contesting for second place lagging a considerable distance behind. All delivered with confidence, gusto and an equal respect for history and innovation (witness the amazing transformation of Paris into a cycling city with a public commitment to reduce vehicle traffic in the core by 50% by 2010).

Our best event so far (after 4 days in Paris) – the Fat Tire 3 hour night guided cycle of the city followed by a one hour cruise on the Seine with as much wine flowing above deck as water flowing below. A highly energetic and enjoyable tour (thank you Janet for the suggestion).

A bientot!